Saturday, July 31, 2010

Day 29: Xining (西寧)

Train Rides
Not much to report today, it was mainly a travel day.  Our train from Xi'an (西安) was delayed an hour and we left at 6am.  Slept the entire way in our soft sleeper beds to Lanzhou (蘭州), where we caught another train to Xining (西寧), this would be 2.5 hours and they had standing room only.  This time we didn't get seats so we had to stand the entire time.  Only memorable things were one woman stepped on Charlotte's foot and didnt apologize, then later feeding her child water she spilled a bunch on Charlotte, looked at her and then continued with what she was doing.  Charlotte was pretty annoyed.

Map
I haven't updated our map in a while, so here is where we currently are and have been
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We are in the North right now you can click this map, or use the following link for an up to date http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=109975333615162982997.00048ad7c4d41f0ece96f&z=5

Good food
Getting to Xining (西寧) around 7 we found a hotel and then went to eat, found some pretty good food tonight. A large portion of this town is Muslim and they have to treat their meat a certain way for religious reasons so that might be why its better. they also love meat on a stick, but then again who doesn't?  After dinner we just walked around 2 night markets and headed in for the night

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Squid on a stick (火爆魷魚)

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Cooked squid on a stick

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A local special noodle dish (釀皮)

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Lamb and vegetables on sizzling plate (鐵板炒羊肉)

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When you are done eating in China you just throw everything on the table (or floor) and leave

Day 28: Xi'an (西安)

More Hostel Problems
I forgot to mention that when we woke up yesterday our shower flooded our room again even though it had been "fixed".  When we returned at like 1am and the power was still out, they offered to change our rooms, but not having any lights in the room it would have been impossible and the room they wanted to switch us to didn't have internet either, so we just stayed there.


Free tickets to the museum
Didn't really sleep due to the lack of A/C so it was easy to wake up early in order to get to the Shanxi history museum (陝西歷史博物館) which presents all known Chinese history up until 907 AD when Xi'an (西安) was the capital city (長安).  The museum was to open at 8:30 and the first 4000 tickets are free.  So we got there right at 8:30, but so did a ton of Chinese tourists.  We waited in line, but it was barely moving and we were far away.  Charlotte went up front to see what the deal was and she came back with 2 tickets.  I asked how she got them and she said the line was for the free tickets, but the cost of the museum, plus a special exhibition hall only cost $3, so she thought it was worth it not to wait on line for an hour.

No trains
After the museum we went to a travel agent and asked about trains to one of our next two cities Xining (西寧) or Lanzhou (蘭州), but they said there were no more.  As we later found out each booking service is only given a certain amount of tickets and if they are out, it doesn't mean the train is booked.  Once again the only way to know for sure is going to the train station.

More flooding, but a solution
We went back to the hostel around noon and found it still had no power and found now the public bathroom was flooding into our room.  We were checking out, but felt we needed to complain anyway.  The first woman came up and we started telling her all the problems, then Charlotte got tired and asked to bring in the English speaking worker.  We were pretty upset, probably from heat and lack of sleep, but we told her we didn't blame the hostel for the lack of power, or even the plumbing problems, but didn't like the fact that they never even offered us anything like water, tea or a  beer while the power was out and we had to go spend our money at the local bars to keep cool because they didn't offer anything.  In addition, the fact that wifi is only available in the lobby when the ad clearly stated internet in the room really annoyed us.  At this point they became very apologetic and offered to figure out the train situation for us and offered us money back for the night with no power.  Later they even gave back the first nights money too!  They were able to go to the train station and find soft sleeper beds for us leaving at 5am the next morning!  We then told them that we would be happy to stay that night (if they got power back) and pay for it since they gave us 2 nights free and really went out of their way for us.


Worst market ever.
Our Lonely Planet tour guide book suggested that Wednesday was the most popular day for a local market, so we went to check it out, we were very disappointed

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I would hate to see the market on a slow day

Backup
Having some computer problems (the reason for the delay in updates) we decided to check out some electronics stores to see if we could get a cheap hard drive so we could backup our pictures.  Spent a little time bargaining then was able to get a 250 GB portable hard drive for a decent price, so now all our pictures are safe.  Also at this store a seller told us to always check the hard drive's serial number on manufacturer's website to make sure it is authentic.  A lot of these portable hard drives might look brand new and even come in a box, but they are actually taken from used laptops and re-conditioned by adding a new case with brand name on it.  We did check our hard drive's serial number on WD website before buying it.

Wild Goose Pagoda (大雁塔)
We then went to check out the Wild Goose Pagoda which was built in 652 AD.  One of the pagoda's many functions was to hold sutras and figurines of the Buddha that were brought to China from India by the Buddhist translator and traveler Xuanzang (三藏).

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Wild Goose Pagoda

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Power is still out...time to check out the city
Went back to the hostel, but the power was still out at 6pm, so we decided to go check out the "South Gate" which is the area around the south gate of the city walls.  The area everyone talks about turned out to be a foreigner street that you find in many Asian cities, like Khao San Road in Bangkok, so we left then found another market street was closing and ended up at a coffee shop to use the internet and wait.  We have 3 official hang outs when we have no place to stay and want a cool, clean place to stay, coffee shops if we need the internet (coffee is Starbucks prices though so we try and stay away), KFC or Dico's the Chinese version of KFC.  Then we got a call saying the power was back on in the hostel.

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A market (書院巷) selling art supplies

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Chillin in the coffee shop

Power is back?  Wait, maybe not
By the time we got there it was off again!  I now felt bad for the hostel as well as other customers, so we said we would be back and went to another coffee shop.  Once we returned the power was finally back on and they set us up with a room to stay in until 3am when they would help us find a cab to the train station, they also only charged us half a nights rent, so for 3 nights we only paid for half a night.  Afterwards I felt bad about getting angry with them, but everything turned out for the best!

Friday, July 30, 2010

Day 27: Xi'an (西安)

Hostel
We spent the night in Xi'an (西安) and had some trouble finding the hostel last night, but then only to find out there was no internet in the rooms like they advertised.  Then we found out after many hostels with limited or no hot water, this shower had no COLD water.  I had never heard of this before, but it made for some hot showers that then proceeded to flood the room.  Got that fixed and got some sleep.

Going to the Terracotta Warriors(兵馬俑)... maybe
We went to the train station to find a bus to the Terracotta Warriors and a guy approached us saying he had a bus going there and also to a couple other sites we were interested in, so we joined him.  Waiting for the bus to leave, Charlotte went to get a drink.  On the way back she was about to climb onto the bus when a woman behind me decided to throw out her water bottle.  Now in China this means literally throwing the bottle out of the bus onto the sidewalk.  Unfortunately for Charlotte, she was standing there and got hit by it, the woman who threw it said "sorry" and laughed.   Charlotte luckily did not kill her, probably because earlier in our trip we had seen worse when a girl got hit in the head by the uneaten portion of corn on the cob someone threw out a bus window.   The bus started going and the guide got our money for all the admissions.  The first stop was a mountain (骊山) where we took another gondola up and saw just how smoggy Xi'an is.  I think on Los Angeles' worst day it was 10 times better than this.  We then hiked down the mountain.  This was an important mountain because Chiang Kai-shek was stationed here and a traitor in his army described his location (following picture is the view of Chang Kai-shek's office from the mountain, 華清池) , but before getting captured he ran up the mountain and hid between some rocks, however he was later discovered and forced to join forces with Mao and the communists to fight the Japanese, therefor they built an area called "Catching Chiang Kai-shek pavilion"(捉蔣亭-西安事變)

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Smog? What smog?

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Charlotte hanging in Chiang Kai-shek's hideout

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Well he went a little higher up

After the mountain we found ourselves at a Jade shop。  Every Chinese tour must have this.  Finally Charlotte asked when we would be getting to the Terracotta Warriors.  The guide said, "oh most people don’t even end up wanting to go there, in fact last week someone said its not as good as the plastic colorful recreations they have setup at where we are going to next.  But if you want we will go in a couple hours".  To this we got very pissed off and demanded our money back and took off on our own.

Terracotta Warriors (兵馬俑)
The Terracotta Warriors were created around 210 BC as a type of funerary art and were buried with the First Emperor of Qin (秦始皇) in 210-209 BC.  There were are at least 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots with 520 horses and 150 cavalry horses ranging from 6 feet to 6 feet 5 inches tall and no two are the same.  They were first discovered in the 1970's by a farmer.  Most still remain buried, but they have dug out quite a bit. There were a total of 3 rooms that they have so far dug out.  Originally they were colorful, but the color faded as soon as they were dug out and exposed to the air.  In addition, the tomb of the Emperor still remains buried.

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The first room they discovered

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This guy had really long arms!

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A lot had broken pieces

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You can really see the detail

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A lot of headless ones in the 2nd room

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Tons of them were broken, so they have stopped trying to recover anymore

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They also found some human graves in the sight


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 Where can i get a pig face?
After the Terracotta Warriors, we walked around town and found a Walmart so decided to check that out, where we found some interesting things.

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Want a pig face?  Go to Walmart!

No power?
After we returned to our hostel, we found the power was out.  Which meant no A/C and it was 11pm and still about 80 degrees with 80% humidity. We decided to walk around and we found a KFC and I was hungry so I ordered a New Orleans style sandwich, which was actually better than anything I have had at the US KFC's.  Then we found a bar and went back around 1am and the power was still out, but we felt we should sleep.  The room was boiling hot so we did not sleep well.

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mm it tastes like New Orleans

Day 26: Huanglong (yellow dragon) 黃龍

 Is this a national park tour or a shopping tour?
Woke up early this morning at about 5:30 as our bus would leave after our final night in the horrible hotel at around 6:45 to go to a second national park nearby, Huanglong (or the yellow dragon) (黃龍). The tour bus was going back to Chengdu (成都), but we had made arrangements to leave after the park and fly to Xi'an (西安) so we wouldn't have to deal with the tour anymore. Thinking it would be an easy day we were relaxed, but then we remembered the shopping part of the tour. This is where the bus pulls over at a specific store and the driver and tour guide get money for stopping as well as commission off anything you buy. First at 8am was an hour stop at a silver jewelery store. Getting back on the bus i was actually surprised that a lot of people bought things. Next was an hour stop at a crystal jewelery store, but before we could get there our bus broke down. The driver tried to fix it but he had to call in another bus so we could get to the shop and he would meet us there. The bus breaking down meant we had to shop till 11:00, but knowing we were close to done with the shopping I started waking up, but then around 11:30 we had another stop this time at a Tibetan medicine store. Again we bought nothing and the rest of the group bought quite a bit, except for a group of guys who also didn't care for shopping. Finally the tour guide got on the microphone and said we had one more shop and no one better dare get back on the bus without buying something, because that would be very embarrassing. Luckily for us this one was a yak jerky store with free tastings, I could get behind this, so we bought some yak jerky so we wouldn't be scolded.

Trying to scam us 1 more time
Then on to lunch, two waitresses at the restaurant started fighting in the backroom.  We could only hear it, but supposedly this one was actually a physical fight. By now we have heard screaming matches almost daily in stores, restaurants or just on the street, but this is the first time we have heard a fist fight going on. Again the food was horrid as the tour was paying for it. It's now nearing 1:30 and we haven't even started towards the national park.  The tour guide came up to us and said that she thinks we should just stay at the town the restaurant is in and skip going to the park, or we might miss our flight because the roads were bad; we might not find a taxi back and they would be returning too late, plus its at least an hour and a half ride there.  Of course she would not be refunding our $40 each for park tickets and would probably keep that for herself.

The ride up
We decided we would risk it, if we needed to we would use the tickets to get into the park and then leave immediately just so she didn't get the money. Well the bus got there, after breaking down 2 more times, at around 3:30pm. The ride up there was amazing and I got some good pictures outside the bus window at about 4100 meters in elevation.

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Random yak on the side of the road

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On the drive up

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More pictures from the bus


Fastest national park visit ever
We took a gondola up the mountain (every mountain in China has a gondola). And then hiked down.  We were basically sprinting down the mountain at this high elevation for 2 hours.  Worried if we made the right decision, but we did stop for some pictures.

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On the top of the mountain

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Calcified lakes

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And you thought your job was hard, I don't think he can get workers comp either!

We missed the best part!
We got to the base by 5:30 and found a cab after about 20 minutes of looking (he had heard from another driver a foreigner and Chinese girl were looking for a cab and came to find us). He laughed and said we were going to be so early for our flight.  Oh well, better than missing it. We got some more pictures of the scenery and he also informed us that we missed the best part of the town. He said if we come back he can set us up with his brother who runs a horse trekking tour and for ~$25 a day we can take horses into the mountain, food and tents provided. We are seriously considering going back later in our trip to take him up on this offer.  He also told us more history on the town then the tour guide ever told us

The following are all from our scenic ride to the airport

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Day 25: Jiuzhaigou (九寨溝)

Jiuzhaigou
This is an image heavy post, because we spent the entire day at a national park. This is at the top of a mountain about ~3000m and all the lakes are filled with calcium which causes a very blue color to the lake and any trees and branches that fall into remain intact and are basically fossilized looking like they just fell in even though they have been there for decades. Most of the trees that are in the lake were cut down during the cultural revolution when most of the past of China was destroyed and they required lots of trees to build new things, but then left the extras and they fell into the lakes creating an amazing scene.

The other interesting thing about this park is there is a bus that brings you to the top of the mountains and you can get off at any scenic overlook. At each of the spots there were a couple hundred Chinese tourists fighting for pictures; however if you took hiking trails (not really trails, they are all wood plank sidewalks) you could get away from the mass groups. We found a rule early on that was true all day: if the sign said the trail was less than 300 meters to the next sight, it was filled with Chinese tourists; however if it was over 300 meters to the next site EVERYONE took the bus.  Well I shouldn't say everyone.  During the 4+ hours we spent on these trails, we ran into about 4 other foreigners, and 2 Chinese tourists, although the fact that they were on the trail meant they probably weren't actually from China.

 These are really the actually colors!  I only captioned a couple, the rest are either calcified lakes or waterfalls!

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A tree growing out of another tree!

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No one around, must be a long hike

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AH! Another foreigner!

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The walk towards the end

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A lake full of reeds.

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This was really scary, right outside the park, from the left is protected water, to the right is normal Chinese water.